Battambang is Cambodia's second-largest
city and the capital of Battambang Province, which was founded in the
11th century. It is the former capital of Monton Kmer and lies in the
heart of the Northwest of Cambodia. Until the war years, in which almost
every infrastructure was destructed it was the leading rice-producing
province of the country.
The name Battambang or Batdambang,
literally means "loss of stick" referring to a legend of the Preah Bat
Dambang Kranhoung (Kranhoung Stick King). The population is nowadays
around 250,000 people . It's a riverside town, home to some of the
best-preserved, French colonial architecture in the country.
Until
recently Battambang was off the map for road travellers, but facilities
have recently been improved and it makes a great base for visiting the
nearby temples, such as Phnom Banon and Wat Ek Phnom, as well as the
closedby villages.
It's a secondary hub on the overland route
between Thailand and Vietnam, and if the National Highway No 6 from
Poipet to Siem Reap is ever upgraded it'll become an even smaller hub.
The network of charming old French shop houses clustered along the
riverbank is the real highlight here, and there are a number of Wats
scattered around the town.
The small museum has a collection of
Angkorian-era artifacts, and beyond the town there's a number of hilltop
temples, yet more Wats and a pretty large lake. One of the more famous
hills is Phnom Sampeau (Ship Hill) with the notorious killing caves.
Battambang
did not give way to the Khmer Rouge movement after the fall of Phnom
Penh, but it?s been in the centre of the ongoing government Khmer Rouge
conflict ever since the Vietnamese invasion in 1979 pushed the genocidal
regime out of Phnom Penh and to the Northwest. Until the surrender deal
of Ieng Sary (Khmer Rouge number three man based in Pailin),Battambang
was the Khmer Rouge stronghold in the region.
In the earlier
history Battambang flip-flopped back and forth between Thailand (called
Siam before their 20th-century renaming) and Cambodia. It's been a part
of Thailand most of the time since the 15th century, with Cambodia
regaining control (more specifically due the French) in 1907. The Thais
grabbed it again, with Japanese assistance, in 1941 and kept the region
in their camp until the World War II years in 1947.
The Allied
Forces helped persuade the Thais that the region was originally part of
ancient Cambodia and the world community would not take kindly to the
Thais holding onto it further. Like the rest of the Northwest, there is
still a lot of Thai influence apparent. The main currency is still the
Thai Baht and many people are able to converse in Thai. But the area is
very Khmer, with ancient Khmer ruins scattered around, and even the ways
of life are much more similar to the rest of Cambodia than to Thailand.
Battambang city is a peaceful and pleasant place these days.
The main parts of the city are situated closed to the Sangker River, a
tranquil, small body of water that winds its way through Battambang
Province. It is a nice, picturesque setting. As with much of Cambodia,
the French architecture is an attractive bonus of the city.

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